I thought this might be of some interest to those of you that also have a 2005-2007 GT Mustang.F.Y.I,the rear calipers on the Shelby are the same as the rear calipers on the GT Mustang.The shelbys are painted black the GT Mustang are painted chrome but the pads are of different material.I did some research on the calipers due to me wanting to change the pads.

I thought this might be of some interest to those of you that also have a 2005-2007 GT Mustang.F.Y.I,the rear calipers on the Shelby are the same as the rear calipers on the GT Mustang.The shelbys are painted black the GT Mustang are painted chrome but the pads are of different material.I did some research on the calipers due to me wanting to change the pads.

07 why did you want to change the pads? I was under the impression these were of ceramic composite.:confused: Or was that the clutch material only?

07 why did you want to change the pads? I was under the impression these were of ceramic composite.:confused: Or was that the clutch material only?

Clutch material.I have 4 Fords(big surprise)and am tired of cleaning wheels.The Shelby is not a daily driver and when I take it out I don't care for all the brake dust on the wheels and on the side of the car.I am picky about this and it is a personal thing.Don't get me wrong I think the brakes are very good I am just tired of cleaning the wheels and side of the car.Just my opinion.The reason for the thread was for info purposes only between the Mustng GT and Shelby calipers.

Clutch material.I have 4 Fords(big surprise)and am tired of cleaning wheels.The Shelby is not a daily driver and when I take it out I don't care for all the brake dust on the wheels and on the side of the car.I am picky about this and it is a personal thing.Don't get me wrong I think the brakes are very good I am just tired of cleaning the wheels and side of the car.Just my opinion.The reason for the thread was for info purposes only between the Mustng GT and Shelby calipers.

I understand your concern and I agree 100% as to the brake dust. If you find a suitable replacement please let us know for I would make the change as well.:)

Amen to that... I was going to ask if I was the only one. I can have this car so clean you can eat off of it, in fact one day was bored so after washing it put it on stands..used a creeper got under it and washed the inside of the rims...do dust no nothing just like the day I picked it up. Than took it around the block and while parked in the garage I rubbed my finger on the rim and there it was... black dust. At that point in time I realized this car is getting the best of me :)

New brake pads please... no dust and still stops on a dime... Didn't ford see these break pads shed :(

Let us know how you make out on the pad mission :

Amen to that... I was going to ask if I was the only one. I can have this car so clean you can eat off of it, in fact one day was bored so after washing it put it on stands..used a creeper got under it and washed the inside of the rims...do dust no nothing just like the day I picked it up. Than took it around the block and while parked in the garage I rubbed my finger on the rim and there it was... black dust. At that point in time I realized this car is getting the best of me :)

New brake pads please... no dust and still stops on a dime... Didn't ford see these break pads shed :(

Let us know how you make out on the pad mission :


You know I already bought some pads.I just wanted to wait till I could give an honest opinion.They are for aggressive driving and little dust.

You know I already bought some pads.I just wanted to wait till I could give an honest opinion.They are for aggressive driving and little dust.

Hope we don't have to wait till spring to hear the results?:p

Hope we don't have to wait till spring to hear the results?:p



Shlbysvt,
You don't miss a lick do you?I just got an e-mail and they should be here tomorrow or next.Give me a couple of weeks and I will let you know.

I don't plan to put on many miles between now and than so that works for me. Of course if Santa comes through with the air intake I might put a couple of miles on it :) all in a straight line and hopefully won't use the brakes.

I've heard good things about these:

Porterfield (http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html)

I haven't tried them yet, but plan to in the spring. I'll get the R4-S.

I agree with you, 07, that the stock Ford pads create more dust than anyone should have to live with. I've noticed the same with all the Ford trucks I've owned, except my Excursion for some strange reason. I have never even seen any brake dust on that one in 3+ years (100,000 miles) of driving.

I've heard good things about these:

Porterfield (http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html)

I haven't tried them yet, but plan to in the spring. I'll get the R4-S.

I agree with you, 07, that the stock Ford pads create more dust than anyone should have to live with. I've noticed the same with all the Ford trucks I've owned, except my Excursion for some strange reason. I have never even seen any brake dust on that one in 3+ years (100,000 miles) of driving.



Orf you beat me to it.Those are the pads I bought.I talked to a couple people who have used them and they love them.I did some searching on the net and got good reviews.If you don't prep the rotors you will get noise,other than that they are suppose to create 80% to 90% less dust and not chew up your rotors.I bought them from Jerry @ myroadster.net and comes with a brake noise silencer kit.

Here is the e-mail from Jerry:

Buy them through Jerry, a Porterfield distributor, for $169 front and $129
Rear. 888 563 7227 (MyRoadster.Net)
A brake noise silencer kit is included in the price, through Jerry only.
(Good procedure to prevent noise)

Porterfield R4S Street Compound:
Friction coefficient is .4
Operating Temperature range is
0 degrees F to 1,100degrees F
Brake dust reduction of at least 80% since the dust that is created does not
stick to clear coat or metal

The R4S is the fastest stopping street compound on the market, and are rotor
friendly.

07 - Have you installed the new brake pads?

07 - Have you installed the new brake pads?


No I haven't received them yet.In the next couple of days I should have them.

07 - Who is going to do the installation? Yourself or someone else?

07 - Who is going to do the installation? Yourself or someone else?



Aldy I will do all the work.

07 - looking forward to a full report on how the installation went and the performance of the pads (i.e. - dust free)

07 - looking forward to a full report on how the installation went and the performance of the pads (i.e. - dust free)


Ok I will let you know.

The brake dust is terrible. It is as bad as my old 05 F150. I put clean wheels on it. Someone mentioned Hawk pads were good. I hope you have good luck with the new pads and let us know, PLEASE.

So the R4S pads are supposed to stop better than stock and produce less dust? Would be well worth the $ if that were the case!

Well between work,family,shopping,sleeping and my daughters birthday I finally got the pads on.It is quite a prep job but if there is minimal amount of dust and no rotor/caliper noise it will be worth every penny.I hope to get the Beast out tomorrow.It is still on jack stands so if nothing else I will put the wheels and battery back in and run her in the garage.I took pictures for those of you that will do it them selves.

This is a picture of the front left rotor and the tools to take it off.It's not in the picture but you will also need a 1/8" punch or welding rod to knock out the 2 pins in the picture in the upper LH side.You will have to knock them out from the outside of the caliper to the inside(wheel well).The star washers will be destroyed so you will have to get new ones or not put them back in.They go over the lugs(2)to keep the rotor in position to work on at the factory.The socket or wrench size for all bolts is 15 mm.

Why would you take the rotor off to just replace the pads? If the rotor didn't need to be turned I wouldn't think you would have to remove it. Do you need to do this to seat the pads or something?

You have to prepare the rotors for the new pads.It was late last night(for me)so I didn't get to post more pictures.When I get home I will try to post more pictures with explanation.I don't have the pictures on this computer.It will make more sense then,sorry.

Ok I am back.These are most of the pictures I took.The 1st picture is the rotor prep and anti squeak kit.It came with my order through myroadster.net.the 2nd is the wet/dry sand paper that is supplied.3rd and 4th is the brake soap.5th is the rotor Silencer in a spray can.6th and 7th is the high pressure lube for all metal parts.The last picture is the finished product.

Here is 1 more.This is the front rotor completed.

I forgot the specs:

Front caliper to knuckle........torque spec set point 115 NM(not to be confused with psi LOL)

Rear caliper to spindle.........Torque spec set point 103 NM(ditto)

Lugnuts...........Torque spec set point 133 NM(ditto)

These are the specs right off the assembly line.

I took the beast out today to test the brakes and feed my hunger for driving it.The weather isn't that nice,drizzling.I really can't give you a full opinion on these pads but can tell you this, the silencer kit really is worth it as I did not hear any squeaks, rattles or noises.I only put 10 miles on it due to the weather but when I put it back in the garage I wiped down the whole car with a brand new thick yellow microfiber towel and there was no dust at all.The wheels had some dirt due to the wet conditions but was not full of dust like the old pads.These pads stop very well and I think they were just what I was looking for.When I can get it out for some extended time and break them in real well that will be the real test.I already like them better than the old pads.I'll try to get it out soon and put some miles on it.

I got mine on order yesterday. Thanks for all the info guys.

It was nice hear in Michigan yesterday,52 F and sunny.I decided to take the beast out and put some miles on the new pads.I put a total of 125 miles on her before calling it a day.I can tell you the more I drive it the better the pads are.Very little dust and they are not even broken in yet.There is a break in period of about 300 miles.The 1st 75 to a 100 miles there was some particulates from the pads and rotors on the wheel.I think it is the spray from the rotors and minute particles of pad.It did wipe right off though.The last 25 to 50 miles the wheels were very clean and so was the side of the body.From what I have been told after 300 miles the wheels stay pretty clean.I can already see a big difference,I don't have to clean all the time.I doubt I will put 300 miles on by spring but I am very happy with my decision to change the pads.So if you ask are they worth it I would have to say yes,yes indeed.Just remember I did prep my rotors like recommended and I don't have a big dust problem nor do I have any squealing.I hope this helps!

Can someone tell me how to get the piston on the rear brakes to return far enough to replace the pads and put back on rotor?

Can someone tell me how to get the piston on the rear brakes to return far enough to replace the pads and put back on rotor?


Sure.Do you see the 2 grooves on the face of the piston.They make a tool,$13.00(Sears,Murrays,Autozone etc.)that will seat the piston.I made mine, it is in one of the post with pictures with the tools.You have to turn the piston clockwise with the tool till it is about flush with the housing.DO NOT use a c-clamp,you won't budge it but you might mess it up.It will take a little elbow grease or have a 2nd pair of hands to hold the caliper while you turn.Let me know how it goes,ok

In post #24,the bottom left picture has the tool I made in it.It has the screwdriver going through the top of it(handle).It has the 2 tits sticking out at the bottom.It is a spanner type tool.The tits go in the groove on the face of the piston then turn clockwise till the pads go over the rotor.

Hey thanks alot I appreciate your knowledge.

Hey thanks alot I appreciate your knowledge.



No problem.Glad I could help.

Nice detail instructions 07, In the past when I have replace pads either the rotors would get turned a little or if they didn't need it just put new pads on, but my kits did not have all the stuff you got nor did it talk about it. What happens if you just put new pads in, I have 1400 miles on it and guessing the rotors are 100% so would I need to do all those steps with those pads ? Also how long did it take you from start to finish. Certain things are a labor of love but the brake pads look like allot of work and not sure I love it that much :)

Nice detail instructions 07, In the past when I have replace pads either the rotors would get turned a little or if they didn't need it just put new pads on, but my kits did not have all the stuff you got nor did it talk about it. What happens if you just put new pads in, I have 1400 miles on it and guessing the rotors are 100% so would I need to do all those steps with those pads ? Also how long did it take you from start to finish. Certain things are a labor of love but the brake pads look like allot of work and not sure I love it that much :)



Thanks.I had 1442 miles when I did my pads.I'll put it this way.The labor is about 3 hours estimate maybe 4 at most.I guess I would have to ask myself,how much time do I spend cleaning my wheels and the side of my car?This is a 1 shot deal of labor.I am not driving my car for 1/2 hour to spend 1/2 cleaning it.You can take a chance on not prepping the rotor and have it squeal,but like I tell people that I work with,how is it you don't have enough time to do it right the 1st time but you have enough time to do it right the 2 nd time?(I have been guilty of this myself)You could pay to have it done.You can buy the kit at myroadster.com for $20.00.I could not stand listening to it squeal myself.It would ruin the mood every time I took it out.It's your decision.I just showed what I did and am very happy with the results.Here is a little more info for your reading pleasure.

Thanks 07 went to Sears and purchased a brake piston tool along with other tools that I probably should have left on the shelf but oh well. Brakes are fixed.

Thanks 07 went to Sears and purchased a brake piston tool along with other tools that I probably should have left on the shelf but oh well. Brakes are fixed.



Great,good for you.Let us know how it drives!

Unless I find other brake pads I will get these before spring and do the install not sure I will do all the prep work, I will do the lube of all the parts but the rest I think I will past on I have been very lucky in the past with just putting the pads on with no problems but if they do squeal than at least I will have the kit to fix it, but thinking with the Shaker 1000 and Guns & Roses playing I won't hear much brake noise :)

'07, you have had these pads on your car for a while now. Are you still happy with them? I am going to put mine on this weekend. Thanks for all the information you provided.

'07, you have had these pads on your car for a while now. Are you still happy with them? I am going to put mine on this weekend. Thanks for all the information you provided.



I am very happy.I still haven't put the 300 mile break in period but it is tons better.What dust I do get comes right off.It was just what I was looking for.

Any other feedback on the Porterfield pads would be appreciated now that folks have been running them for awhile. I noticed the dust problem especially on the rear of my car all over the white stripes.

The Porterfield pads are rather pricey. Steeda carries the Hawk HPS pads - anyone have any experience with these?

Any other feedback on the Porterfield pads would be appreciated now that folks have been running them for awhile. I noticed the dust problem especially on the rear of my car all over the white stripes.

The Porterfield pads are rather pricey. Steeda carries the Hawk HPS pads - anyone have any experience with these?

I know the Porterfields are great.I put mine on in December.My time is a lot more valuable than the price of the pads.

Thanks for posting this again I will be putting these on my car as well, specially after seeing them on 07 SHELBY's car. :)

This is a picture of the front left rotor and the tools to take it off.It's not in the picture but you will also need a 1/8" punch or welding rod to knock out the 2 pins in the picture in the upper LH side.You will have to knock them out from the outside of the caliper to the inside(wheel well).The star washers will be destroyed so you will have to get new ones or not put them back in.They go over the lugs(2)to keep the rotor in position to work on at the factory.The socket or wrench size for all bolts is 15 mm.

O7

Where did you get the replacement star washers for the rotors?

Right now I plan to purchase the Porterfield pads and install them myself - I'll stick with what is known to rid the GT500 of this horrible brake dust problem. I hesitate to drive the car each time I wash it because I know the rear end will be covered with dust in just one short ride.:(

Thanks for the instuctions and tips.:)

I just finished putting on my Porterfield pads this weekend and I did not go back with the star washers. I think they are just there to make the original installation a little easier anyway.

FYI, the front brake pistons can be reseated using a C-clamp, but the rear ones have to be screwed in. If you have a special tool like this one (which is made by Schley Products), you will have no problems! I do not have one, so I had problems with the last set of pads. Somehow, I managed to get the other side on without help. I ended up removing the caliper and taking to a local brake shop, where they used a tool like this and easily seated the piston for me. It was smooth sailing after that.

One last thing that the brake guy told me, when you get the piston seated, make sure that one of the V notches on the piston face is aligned at the top (or outside) of the caliper to accept the pin on the back of the pad.

Oldimp

Thanks for the additional suggestions. I purchased a brake caliper tool kit from Habor Freight tools - about $17 on sale. :)

Please share what you think of the Porterfield pads with regards to braking performance and brake dust - whether it eliminates or just reduces the dust problem.

Oldimp

Thanks for the additional suggestions. I purchased a brake caliper tool kit from Habor Freight tools - about $17 on sale. :)

Please share what you think of the Porterfield pads with regards to braking performance and brake dust - whether it eliminates or just reduces the dust problem.

:eek: You can't use cheap tools on this car. That's like Paris Hilton using Suave Shampoo.;)

brb....I am going to Harbor Freight!

thanks for the tip
JJ

:eek: You can't use cheap tools on this car. That's like Paris Hilton using Suave Shampoo.;)

brb....I am going to Harbor Freight!

thanks for the tip
JJ

Hey I like Suave Shampoo and Paris too!:D :D

:eek: You can't use cheap tools on this car. That's like Paris Hilton using Suave Shampoo.;)

brb....I am going to Harbor Freight!

thanks for the tip
JJ

In case you're interested, Habor Freight also has a 13 pc punch set on sale for $7.99. 07 mentioned that a 1/8" punch (or equivalent) is needed to remove the calipers.

In case you're interested, Habor Freight also has a 13 pc punch set on sale for $7.99. 07 mentioned that a 1/8" punch (or equivalent) is needed to remove the calipers.

Back to harbor freight ;)

Since there have been numerous brake questions lately, I thought I'd bring this out of hybernation.:)

Cal