I would like to designate this thread for issues you have on your Shelby.Not the issue that you don't have a Shelby though,sorry.

I keep my Shelby pretty clean.Every time I open the hood there seems to be brake fluid droplets on the top and side of the reservoir.Has anyone else noticed this on their Shelby or do I have a problem.There isn't a lot of fluid but enough that I can wipe it off.

I would like to designate this thread for issues you have on your Shelby.Not the issue that you don't have a Shelby though,sorry.

I keep my Shelby pretty clean.Every time I open the hood there seems to be brake fluid droplets on the top and side of the reservoir.Has anyone else noticed this on their Shelby or do I have a problem.There isn't a lot of fluid but enough that I can wipe it off.

This is a known problem. I've read about it on a couple of boards. The seal on the fluid reservoir cap was poorly designed. You can probably find something at home depot or fabricate a new one to fix the problem. This is a very important fix because brake fluid is very corrosive.

Here's one fix I found:
Step 1. Purchase a Danco Tub Drain Gasket from Home Depot (98 cents)
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0056.jpg

Step 2. Remove Brake Reservoir Cover and place gasket on the outside of the container.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0054.jpg

Step 3. Replace Reservoir cover and tighten down.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0053.jpg

Woo Hoo! I contributed to the board in a non-whiney way! :D

This is a known problem. I've read about it on a couple of boards. The seal on the fluid reservoir cap was poorly designed. You can probably find something at home depot or fabricate a new one to fix the problem. This is a very important fix because brake fluid is very corrosive.

Here's one fix I found:
Step 1. Purchase a Danco Tub Drain Gasket from Home Depot (98 cents)
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0056.jpg

Step 2. Remove Brake Reservoir Cover and place gasket on the outside of the container.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0054.jpg

Step 3. Replace Reservoir cover and tighten down.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0053.jpg

Woo Hoo! I contributed to the board in a non-whiney way! :D


Rpretzel,
Thanks you are great and fast.Do you have any more info that might help me?

I would like to designate this thread for issues you have on your Shelby.Not the issue that you don't have a Shelby though,sorry.

I keep my Shelby pretty clean.Every time I open the hood there seems to be brake fluid droplets on the top and side of the reservoir.Has anyone else noticed this on their Shelby or do I have a problem.There isn't a lot of fluid but enough that I can wipe it off.

07,

Did not realize you created this thread. Please refer to my thread Warranty Issues. I will post that information on this thread and you can delete my thread. Sorry.

Sitting at a desk of my Ford Deler and would like to inform all of my first, and hopefully only issue with my Shelby. Showing off the engine compartment when I noticed white stains all over my hand built motor.:mad: Check your hose clamps! After pressure testing, not one, but two leaks were discovered. Both on the top left manifold which houses the thermostat. One leak on the large bottom hose to the right (looking at the firewall), and other on one of the smaller hoses, of which there are two. Installed two stainless steel clamps, cleaned her up, courtesy of my dealer's lift, and now ready to go.:) Have to go , the salesman's desk I am at would like to sell a few cars.

I would also like to note that while I was at my dealer he notified me that on the Ford Gt some folks were getting there coil covers chrome plated which caused the coils to over heat and burn out. These are the grey painted covers labeled Powered By SVT. Just a word of advice if anyone was considering that modification. I am under the impression chrome does not dissipate heat as well as the stock painted surface.

I would like to designate this thread for issues you have on your Shelby.Not the issue that you don't have a Shelby though,sorry.

I keep my Shelby pretty clean.Every time I open the hood there seems to be brake fluid droplets on the top and side of the reservoir.Has anyone else noticed this on their Shelby or do I have a problem.There isn't a lot of fluid but enough that I can wipe it off.


Brake fluid is also a good paint remover.
Some people have said they stop the leak by just not filling the fluid to full, maybe for a temporary fix that might help.

Sitting at a desk of my Ford Deler and would like to inform all of my first, and hopefully only issue with my Shelby. Showing off the engine compartment when I noticed white stains all over my hand built motor.:mad: Check your hose clamps! After pressure testing, not one, but two leaks were discovered. Both on the top left manifold which houses the thermostat. One leak on the large bottom hose to the right (looking at the firewall), and other on one of the smaller hoses, of which there are two. Installed two stainless steel clamps, cleaned her up, courtesy of my dealer's lift, and now ready to go.:) Have to go , the salesman's desk I am at would like to sell a few cars.

Yes, I too had a small leak from one of the large hoses at the front left side. The Tech at Ford says it is a known issue and he doesn't know why Ford uses those clamps. He replaced the clamps with stainless worm-gear clamps and all is well now.

Yes, I too had a small leak from one of the large hoses at the front left side. The Tech at Ford says it is a known issue and he doesn't know why Ford uses those clamps. He replaced the clamps with stainless worm-gear clamps and all is well now.



The issue is the installation.The clamps are great.I like worm gear clamps they are old school.The problem is when the clamp is installed it is not released 90 degrees to the hose,so it is cocked.Squeeze the clamp and release and it will seal.Seen it over and over.......07....................

The issue is the installation.The clamps are great.I like worm gear clamps they are old school.The problem is when the clamp is installed it is not released 90 degrees to the hose,so it is cocked.Squeeze the clamp and release and it will seal.Seen it over and over.......07....................

I looked for the same thing 07, but assure you that was not the case on these two clamps for which I had a problem. They simply did do their job. These clamps were clearly installed properly but just did not hold up under pressure for what ever reason, and installation definetely was not the issue. We attemted to do exactly that on the second clamp to no avail.

Yep. Ditto here.

This is a known problem. I've read about it on a couple of boards. The seal on the fluid reservoir cap was poorly designed. You can probably find something at home depot or fabricate a new one to fix the problem. This is a very important fix because brake fluid is very corrosive.

Here's one fix I found:
Step 1. Purchase a Danco Tub Drain Gasket from Home Depot (98 cents)
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0056.jpg

Step 2. Remove Brake Reservoir Cover and place gasket on the outside of the container.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0054.jpg

Step 3. Replace Reservoir cover and tighten down.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0053.jpg

Woo Hoo! I contributed to the board in a non-whiney way! :D

Excellent fix rpretzel. Thanks

This is a known problem. I've read about it on a couple of boards. The seal on the fluid reservoir cap was poorly designed. You can probably find something at home depot or fabricate a new one to fix the problem. This is a very important fix because brake fluid is very corrosive.

Here's one fix I found:
Step 1. Purchase a Danco Tub Drain Gasket from Home Depot (98 cents)
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0056.jpg

Step 2. Remove Brake Reservoir Cover and place gasket on the outside of the container.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0054.jpg

Step 3. Replace Reservoir cover and tighten down.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0053.jpg

Woo Hoo! I contributed to the board in a non-whiney way! :D

Thanks rpretzel for the find! While I don't have a "leak" I did notice some dampness in the area and the cap fitting a little lose. So, I went to Home Depot and purchased the fix shown above. I did modify it a little as I trimmed the rubber gasket to the width of the cap. This way when the cap is on you don't notice the gasket sticking out the sides and being anything "aftermarket" so to speak. It's the same color and width as the cap which now fits more snug with no leakage.

Thanks rpretzel for the find! While I don't have a "leak" I did notice some dampness in the area and the cap fitting a little lose. So, I went to Home Depot and purchased the fix shown above. I did modify it a little as I trimmed the rubber gasket to the width of the cap. This way when the cap is on you don't notice the gasket sticking out the sides and being anything "aftermarket" so to speak. It's the same color and width as the cap which now fits more snug with no leakage.

I also had the thought of trimming down the gasket! Now I don't have to guess that it will work! Good job 2008Shelby and Mr. Prez!

rpretzel - thanks for the cheap fix to the brake fluid leak - it did the trick.

One of a few minor complaints, if you consider it so, when throwing a hard shift from first to second the seat belt tensioners tend to react to the G forces causing one to have to disengage the seat belt to accomodate a comfortable ride. Fix: seat belt clips to prevent the belts from reacting to shifts which seem unavoidable with this beast.:) Anyone seen such an item please let us know for I know they were available for seating comfort in earlier production cars, or I guess just live with it.

This is a known problem. I've read about it on a couple of boards. The seal on the fluid reservoir cap was poorly designed. You can probably find something at home depot or fabricate a new one to fix the problem. This is a very important fix because brake fluid is very corrosive.

Here's one fix I found:
Step 1. Purchase a Danco Tub Drain Gasket from Home Depot (98 cents)
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0056.jpg

Step 2. Remove Brake Reservoir Cover and place gasket on the outside of the container.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0054.jpg

Step 3. Replace Reservoir cover and tighten down.
http://mc.atotchat.org/Mustang-GT/IMG_0053.jpg

Woo Hoo! I contributed to the board in a non-whiney way! :D

Sorry Prez but this fix has, unfortunately, not worked for me. Initially it seemed fine but after about 300 miles checked under the engine compartment and noticed quite abit of fluid accumulating under the gasket.(between the gasket and the resevoir tank) The amount of fluid deposited was more than without the gasket. I believe the gasket is just a little too thick and is raising the cap above the top of the resevoir tank enabling more fluid to seep out. I am now going to try and reduce the level of fluid in the tank, as it seems to be quite high, and see how that does and also remove the gasket.

Sorry Prez but this fix has, unfortunately, not worked for me. Initially it seemed fine but after about 300 miles checked under the engine compartment and noticed quite abit of fluid accumulating under the gasket.(between the gasket and the resevoir tank) The amount of fluid deposited was more than without the gasket. I believe the gasket is just a little too thick and is raising the cap above the top of the resevoir tank enabling more fluid to seep out. I am now going to try and reduce the level of fluid in the tank, as it seems to be quite high, and see how that does and also remove the gasket.

Sorry to hear that didn't work for you. When I get my Shelby, I'll have to play around with it to see if I can figure out a better fix. If I figure out something, I'll be sure to post it.

Sorry to hear that didn't work for you. When I get my Shelby, I'll have to play around with it to see if I can figure out a better fix. If I figure out something, I'll be sure to post it.

rpretzel

Thanks and I will do the same. Pulling for you in your quest for a Vin.:) By the way after 700 miles clutch chatter is almost nonexistent.

rpretzel

Thanks and I will do the same. Pulling for you in your quest for a Vin.:) By the way after 700 miles clutch chatter is almost nonexistent.

or maybe you are learning to shift it :):D

I'm going to try using a Viton or Buna o-ring that fits just inside the top of the cap but does not raise the cap too much...hopefully the cap will tighten down on the o-ring and make a seal w/o being seen. I'll experiment with a few different size o-rings...Stay tuned...if it works I'll send o-rings out to those that want them...no charge. :)

I'm going to try using a Viton or Buna o-ring that fits just inside the top of the cap but does not raise the cap too much...hopefully the cap will tighten down on the o-ring and make a seal w/o being seen. I'll experiment with a few different size o-rings...Stay tuned...if it works I'll send o-rings out to those that want them...no charge. :)

ShelbyWise keep me informed and PM me when you find a good fix. Much appreciated.;) There seems to be an O ring in the cap, would your O ring replace the current or double up on the existing?

ShelbyWise keep me informed and PM me when you find a good fix. Much appreciated.;) There seems to be an O ring in the cap, would your O ring replace the current or double up on the existing?

shlbysvt...I may end up with a different sized o-ring inside the cap and an o-ring at the base of the cap, that the cap presses against as it is tightened...I dunno...I'm on a quest now...:rolleyes:

shlbysvt...I may end up with a different sized o-ring inside the cap and an o-ring at the base of the cap, that the cap presses against as it is tightened...I dunno...I'm on a quest now...:rolleyes:

Good luck in your quest as it is a much needed fix due to the corrosive nature of brake fluid. Was quite disturbed when I discovered more fluid accumulating with the first attempted fix. Don't know if I was the only one experiencing this after the fix or not but resorted to the stock cap only as it seemed to leak less. Keep us informed and would be more than happy to compensate you for postage and O ring cost.:)

Good luck in your quest as it is a much needed fix due to the corrosive nature of brake fluid. Was quite disturbed when I discovered more fluid accumulating with the first attempted fix. Don't know if I was the only one experiencing this after the fix or not but resorted to the stock cap only as it seemed to leak less. Keep us informed and would be more than happy to compensate you for postage and O ring cost.:)



I am also experimenting.I still have the drain gasket on it doesn't leak.

Shortly after taking delivery of my Shelby I noticed a slight bulge on the left side of the drivers seat. It seems to be part of the air bag or seat support system. My concern is it may cause or result in this plastic, or other support system, to wear a hole in the leather skin. I have recently noticed the same, although not as pronounced in the passenger seat. Am curious if anyone else has noticed this defect? I have brought this to the attention of my dealer, although a resolution to the matter has not been discussed, as we are awaiting a response from the Ford Rep.

All,
call me out of touch, but I was wondering why you have not taken this back to Ford? This type of problem should be covered. 07 you work with the people who build this thing. Do they not have an answer?

All,
call me out of touch, but I was wondering why you have not taken this back to Ford? This type of problem should be covered. 07 you work with the people who build this thing. Do they not have an answer?

I do not think you are out of touch, you just did not read the whole Post. I did take it back to Ford and they are currently looking into the problem with their dealer Rep. Once I receive a response from him I will let all know. I was curious if any one else had noticed this defect? If it is a problem with all seats manufactured then a seat replacement will not solve the issue. Skin removal and repair is something I am not fond of doing.

Think Shelbygot2 was talking about the brake fluid leak problem

you are correct AC

Shortly after taking delivery of my Shelby I noticed a slight bulge on the left side of the drivers seat. It seems to be part of the air bag or seat support system. My concern is it may cause or result in this plastic, or other support system, to wear a hole in the leather skin. I have recently noticed the same, although not as pronounced in the passenger seat. Am curious if anyone else has noticed this defect? I have brought this to the attention of my dealer, although a resolution to the matter has not been discussed, as we are awaiting a response from the Ford Rep.

In viewing photos of seats, I am convinced that all seats manufactured have this problem. Look closely at the side of your seats. The side that faces the doors and you will notice a slight bulge in the leather skin from either the air bag system or seat shell. This will be an issue down the road as I have noticed with seat use it is becoming more pronounced. I feel that eventually this item under the skin will wear through the leather making for some unsightly seats. 07 this definetely requires Ford's attention as I have notified my dealer but realize getting a new seat will not resolve the problem for I believe it is with all front seats being manufactured. Help!

In viewing photos of seats, I am convinced that all seats manufactured have this problem. Look closely at the side of your seats. The side that faces the doors and you will notice a slight bulge in the leather skin from either the air bag system or seat shell. This will be an issue down the road as I have noticed with seat use it is becoming more pronounced. I feel that eventually this item under the skin will wear through the leather making for some unsightly seats. 07 this definetely requires Ford's attention as I have notified my dealer but realize getting a new seat will not resolve the problem for I believe it is with all front seats being manufactured. Help!

I here you,I'll ask them about it and let you know!I just went and checked my seats and I see what you are talking about.If I recall correctly it is part of the airbag system.I am not sure they think it is a quality issue but I will ask..............07............

I here you,I'll ask them about it and let you know!I just went and checked my seats and I see what you are talking about.If I recall correctly it is part of the airbag system.I am not sure they think it is a quality issue but I will ask..............07............

Thanks 07, I knew I could count on you.:)

Here is one of 25 signed artist proofs I managed to get on Ford Arte House. Was offered to dealers only is my understanding. Signed by the man himself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-SHELBY-GT500-SHELBY-GT-500-RED-LOW-RESERVE-SIGNED-LITHOGRAPH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6236QQihZ020 QQitemZ300042543263QQrdZ1

In viewing photos of seats, I am convinced that all seats manufactured have this problem. Look closely at the side of your seats. The side that faces the doors and you will notice a slight bulge in the leather skin from either the air bag system or seat shell. This will be an issue down the road as I have noticed with seat use it is becoming more pronounced. I feel that eventually this item under the skin will wear through the leather making for some unsightly seats. 07 this definetely requires Ford's attention as I have notified my dealer but realize getting a new seat will not resolve the problem for I believe it is with all front seats being manufactured. Help!



Shlbysvt,
The bulge in the side of the seat is indeed the airbag.It is not considered a quality issue............................07............... .............

Shlbysvt,
The bulge in the side of the seat is indeed the airbag.It is not considered a quality issue............................07............... .............

07 Not the response I was hoping to get from Ford. I guess this would fall under the 5 year 60,000 mile waranty. So if were to wear through the leather within this time frame it would be covered. If it were to happen there after it would be mine and everyones problem.:(

07 Not the response I was hoping to get from Ford. I guess this would fall under the 5 year 60,000 mile waranty. So if were to wear through the leather within this time frame it would be covered. If it were to happen there after it would be mine and everyones problem.:(



You asked me to check.The seats have been like this since 2005.

You asked me to check.The seats have been like this since 2005.

07 I appreciate your response and I am not in any way faulting you, I just think that this could be an issue down the road. Hopefully I am wrong. Thanks for following up on this matter.;)

07 Not the response I was hoping to get from Ford. I guess this would fall under the 5 year 60,000 mile waranty. So if were to wear through the leather within this time frame it would be covered. If it were to happen there after it would be mine and everyones problem.:(

I thought the 5/60 warranty was only on the powertrain, and 3/36 on everything else.

Dave

I thought the 5/60 warranty was only on the powertrain, and 3/36 on everything else.

Dave

Dave you are correct this would fall under the 3/36. I stand corrected. Even more reason for concern!

Here is one of 25 signed artist proofs I managed to get on Ford Arte House. Was offered to dealers only is my understanding. Signed by the man himself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-SHELBY-GT500-SHELBY-GT-500-RED-LOW-RESERVE-SIGNED-LITHOGRAPH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6236QQihZ020 QQitemZ300042543263QQrdZ1

Did not get a artist proof but I did order one with Shelby signature:D

Did not get a artist proof but I did order one with Shelby signature:D

This is actually the second edition which is still available on fordartehouse. There are 50 artist proofs available to the public. I have the first edition which was limited to 25 artist proofs and only available to Ford Dealers. The first edition and second edtion are actually different images as well. If anyone is interested the proofs are going for $700 on the Ford Arte House web site.

http://ford.artehouse.com/perl/noOptions.pl?skuProductID=25

This is actually the second edition which is still available on fordartehouse. There are 50 artist proofs available to the public. I have the first edition which was limited to 25 artist proofs and only available to Ford Dealers. The first edition and second edtion are actually different images as well. If anyone is interested the proofs are going for $700 on the Ford Arte House web site.

http://ford.artehouse.com/perl/noOptions.pl?skuProductID=25

07 a little pricy but a nice color combination and after all only 50 artist proofs available. I have seen my first edition sell for twice my investment on EBAY. Tempting isn't it?:) :)

07 a little pricy but a nice color combination and after all only 50 artist proofs available. I have seen my first edition sell for twice my investment on EBAY. Tempting isn't it?:) :)



I concur.Colors are great.I am not sure I can convince my wife she needs one.There are so many other things I want to buy I have to be a little picky.She has been real good about this ordeal but after a new garage a new driveway to the back yard and then the Shelby I have spent some$$$$$$$$$$$.This doesn't even include the stuff I bought before I got her and after I got her.I have stuff comming all the time.Does it ever stop?

I concur.Colors are great.I am not sure I can convince my wife she needs one.There are so many other things I want to buy I have to be a little picky.She has been real good about this ordeal but after a new garage a new driveway to the back yard and then the Shelby I have spent some$$$$$$$$$$$.This doesn't even include the stuff I bought before I got her and after I got her.I have stuff comming all the time.Does it ever stop?

I guess at some point we have to say enough is enough but then again life is short. It all comes down to priorities as I have said so often. Sleep on it or try something extra special this weekend, that is if you even have an interest. I saw this and saw it in your living room or at least your garage.:D :D

Took the Shelby out all day Saturday,what a nice day for Michigan.I only have 1 complaint,my SHAKER 1000 CD/MP3 player took a dump.They are going to replace it but there was an issue with the ones that were put in the Shelbys about the time mine was built.These are Clarion units made by Delphi.Seems there is a plastic gear that was breaking on earlier units and the laser was not reading.I am getting multiple errors,disc error,unable to read disc,bad disc and then it would eject the CD.Busababy keep an eye on yours it was built a week after mine.

Howm many miles do you guys have on your cars to be having these problems? I have 3015 and have not yet experienced any of them cross my fingers.

Howm many miles do you guys have on your cars to be having these problems? I have 3015 and have not yet experienced any of them cross my fingers.


I have about 1500 miles!

1256 after driving to work today......
No Issues at all.
Just fun fun fun so far...

Just passed 3000 miles yesterday.

Took the Shelby out all day Saturday,what a nice day for Michigan.I only have 1 complaint,my SHAKER 1000 CD/MP3 player took a dump.They are going to replace it but there was an issue with the ones that were put in the Shelbys about the time mine was built.These are Clarion units made by Delphi.Seems there is a plastic gear that was breaking on earlier units and the laser was not reading.I am getting multiple errors,disc error,unable to read disc,bad disc and then it would eject the CD.Busababy keep an eye on yours it was built a week after mine.

07 I think you jinxed my SHAKER 1000. Took the cover off yesterday ,as my son had to use the garage to install a suede headliner on his STI, and guess what. My SHAKER kept changing between cd's and would not settle in on one disc.:eek: Turned the stereo off, let it set for a few seconds and turned it back on and all seems okay. Quite a coincidence just after reading your post.:D Although not the problem you experieced it did have a minor malfunction.:confused:

1300 miles as of last weekend

07 I think you jinxed my SHAKER 1000. Took the cover off yesterday ,as my son had to use the garage to install a suede headliner on his STI, and guess what. My SHAKER kept changing between cd's and would not settle in on one disc.:eek: Turned the stereo off, let it set for a few seconds and turned it back on and all seems okay. Quite a coincidence just after reading your post.:D Although not the problem you experieced it did have a minor malfunction.:confused:


Keep an eye on it,it's probably going bad.Mine was a slow death to the CD player.During Sept,Oct it skipped songs and did other weird things.I figured it was the CD.

Keep an eye on it,it's probably going bad.Mine was a slow death to the CD player.During Sept,Oct it skipped songs and did other weird things.I figured it was the CD.

So, has Ford/Visteon fixed the problem in the later builds?

So, has Ford/Visteon fixed the problem in the later builds?


Yes they changed the design a little and a gear.

No complains from my Shelby yet... :)

Anybody have an issue with bad steel/paint just inside trunk. Left corner point to left of locking mech. Looks like large paint drip was broken off, size of dime, right on inside point. Extends just to harry edge of being visible. Bare steel showing, and this is outside the rubber gasket. In the moisture.

Also, someone tried to pull a fast one on the hood stripe, front edge, left side. Didn't notice til I washed Baby a few times. Pin head size hole that was colored in with a marker. Now that the white is showing through so well, you can really notice the marker around the edge of the hole. Long live "Permanent" markers. :mad:

Ford is taking care of both items:o . But Baby needs to go in for 2 days to get corrective surgery. ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!:mad:

Here is an issue some of you may be familiar with from another site. It has to do with something happening to the paint under the hood, around where the back of the SC and the EGR tube are located. While I can't confirm that my hood was smooth when it was delivered. Another person, who frequents these forums, verified that his was smooth at delivery, but now his hood shows the same damage as mine. I'm inclined to believe it is heat related, mainly heat from the SC. The Master Tech at the dealership I go to mentioned it could be the electrical gizmo (not a technical term, I just forgot what he called it) on top of the EGR tube that could be causing the heat/damage.

I added 3 shots of the damage. Probably overkill, but sometimes more is better. I also added a shot of the gizmo on top of the EGR.

It would be nice to hear from those of you with more than 1000 miles, preferably who have done a little bit of hard driving at least, to see if you have the same damage. The surface is very rough, and almost looks/feels like the paint is blistering. It could be the clearcoat blistering, but I didn't think the underside of the hood got much, if any, clearcoat.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that in those pictures, you can also see a little bit of damage on the hood insulation.

Here is an issue some of you may be familiar with from another site. It has to do with something happening to the paint under the hood, around where the back of the SC and the EGR tube are located. While I can't confirm that my hood was smooth when it was delivered. Another person, who frequents these forums, verified that his was smooth at delivery, but now his hood shows the same damage as mine. I'm inclined to believe it is heat related, mainly heat from the SC. The Master Tech at the dealership I go to mentioned it could be the electrical gizmo (not a technical term, I just forgot what he called it) on top of the EGR tube that could be causing the heat/damage.

I added 3 shots of the damage. Probably overkill, but sometimes more is better. I also added a shot of the gizmo on top of the EGR.

It would be nice to hear from those of you with more than 1000 miles, preferably who have done a little bit of hard driving at least, to see if you have the same damage. The surface is very rough, and almost looks/feels like the paint is blistering. It could be the clearcoat blistering, but I didn't think the underside of the hood got much, if any, clearcoat.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that in those pictures, you can also see a little bit of damage on the hood insulation.

Just checked my hood and have the same tiny blistering you are referring to. I checked for heat and although the SC is hot the hood is fine. I do not have the insulsation damage yours seem to show. I did notice some of this fine blistering in other parts of the rear underside section of the hood. Not sure it is something that developed over time or a product of some over spray of some sought?:confused: Will keep an eye on it and see it it travels. I believe the only vehicle to receive clear coat under the hood, engine bay, trunk and trunk lid is 07's;), so check that thought. By the way I have 1,400 miles on mine and have driven it hard since 65 miles and loving it!:D :D Install the JLT CAI and Justin's tune and it is hard to drive it any other way.:p

Just checked my hood and have the same tiny blistering you are referring to. I checked for heat and although the SC is hot the hood is fine. I do not have the insulsation damage yours seem to show. I did notice some of this fine blistering in other parts of the rear underside section of the hood. Not sure it is something that developed over time or a product of some over spray of some sought?:confused: Will keep an eye on it and see it it travels. I believe the only vehicle to receive clear coat under the hood, engine bay, trunk and trunk lid is 07's;), so check that thought. By the way I have 1,400 miles on mine and have driven it hard since 65 miles and loving it!:D :D Install the JLT CAI and Justin's tune and it is hard to drive it any other way.:p

I, too, think '07's may have gotten a little more special attention than most of the GT500s going down the line. RHIP.

I'm convinced that it is a progessive type of damage. I have these photos, and if the issue isn't addressed by the time I have 6000 miles (I have 3000 now) I will take more pictures and compare. I don't think it is any sort of overspray, either. I'm pretty well conviced it is heat related, unless that gizmo does something strange. I don't see any fluid lines to it, so that is all voltage and heat. Nope, I think it's strictly a heat issue.

I, too, think '07's may have gotten a little more special attention than most of the GT500s going down the line. RHIP.

I'm convinced that it is a progessive type of damage. I have these photos, and if the issue isn't addressed by the time I have 6000 miles (I have 3000 now) I will take more pictures and compare. I don't think it is any sort of overspray, either. I'm pretty well conviced it is heat related, unless that gizmo does something strange. I don't see any fluid lines to it, so that is all voltage and heat. Nope, I think it's strictly a heat issue.

If any vehicle were to receive special treatment, 07's should and rightfuly so!;)

If any vehicle were to receive special treatment, 07's should and rightfuly so!;)

I totally agree with your view!

Here is an issue some of you may be familiar with from another site. It has to do with something happening to the paint under the hood, around where the back of the SC and the EGR tube are located. While I can't confirm that my hood was smooth when it was delivered. Another person, who frequents these forums, verified that his was smooth at delivery, but now his hood shows the same damage as mine. I'm inclined to believe it is heat related, mainly heat from the SC. The Master Tech at the dealership I go to mentioned it could be the electrical gizmo (not a technical term, I just forgot what he called it) on top of the EGR tube that could be causing the heat/damage.

I added 3 shots of the damage. Probably overkill, but sometimes more is better. I also added a shot of the gizmo on top of the EGR.

It would be nice to hear from those of you with more than 1000 miles, preferably who have done a little bit of hard driving at least, to see if you have the same damage. The surface is very rough, and almost looks/feels like the paint is blistering. It could be the clearcoat blistering, but I didn't think the underside of the hood got much, if any, clearcoat.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that in those pictures, you can also see a little bit of damage on the hood insulation.



Wow I would have never noticed these spots.I rubbed my hand across the same spot and I could feel the acne but could not see it with my eyes.I have a Carl Zeiss lens on my camera and it picked it up.Here are a couple pictures.I will ask tomorrow but this is my take on it right now.I don't think it is a progressive problem.Usually what happens is there is some kind of contaminent in that area,oil or silicone based that doesn't get cleaned off when it goes through the phosphate bath.Then when it gets painted and goes through the oven it gets boiled out and it blisters from the inside out.You can't see it on my hood without the camera.I will let you know hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks for looking into this, 07. I had the same thought about the possible cause (contamination of the surface).

Thanks for looking into this, 07. I had the same thought about the possible cause (contamination of the surface).



Anything for the Prez.Most of the time it is caused by someone that doesn't know any better.Underarm deodorant wreaks havoc on a good paint job.Vendors have sent sealers that have minute amounts of silicone in it.I have seen new employees use silicone spray to push in rubber grommets,kills a paint job.We have oiless pneumatics systems on the conveyers in the paint shop.Well sometimes they stick and someone will squirt some oil in the lines.It is released to atmosphere and you start getting quality problems all over the paint shop.Try and find that one.My point is something is in or around that area not getting cleaned off and is boiling out during one of the oven processes.Maybe something they spray on aluminum for whatever reason.

I would say that the paint problem on the hood is normal. It is from contamination prior to the paint process. Some of the inner parts of the body are going to have paint flaws. The paint is lighter in that area also. I can especially be seen on black. The pinch welds on the strut towers lack paint too. I have some slight wetness on my brake reservior. My car has 370 miles.

Here is an issue some of you may be familiar with from another site. It has to do with something happening to the paint under the hood, around where the back of the SC and the EGR tube are located. While I can't confirm that my hood was smooth when it was delivered. Another person, who frequents these forums, verified that his was smooth at delivery, but now his hood shows the same damage as mine. I'm inclined to believe it is heat related, mainly heat from the SC. The Master Tech at the dealership I go to mentioned it could be the electrical gizmo (not a technical term, I just forgot what he called it) on top of the EGR tube that could be causing the heat/damage.

I added 3 shots of the damage. Probably overkill, but sometimes more is better. I also added a shot of the gizmo on top of the EGR.

It would be nice to hear from those of you with more than 1000 miles, preferably who have done a little bit of hard driving at least, to see if you have the same damage. The surface is very rough, and almost looks/feels like the paint is blistering. It could be the clearcoat blistering, but I didn't think the underside of the hood got much, if any, clearcoat.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that in those pictures, you can also see a little bit of damage on the hood insulation.


This is not caused by heat nor does it get any worse.This is boil out of the e-coat.Electro-coat is a process in which a white body(body that hasn't been painted)goes through a series of dip tanks with a type of paint and is charge with between 30,000 and 60,000 DC volts to make it stick to the body.After that it goes through e-coat oven @ 400F.During the oven process the e-coat gets boiled out in that area and other areas of the hood.The only difference between the hood and the rest of the body is that the hood is aluminum.After that process it gets another coat of Primer over top of the e-coat.Hope this eases your mind.Not sure that anyone knows why this happens.

I also have those under my hood at the same place. I can barely see them but can feel when I run my hands across. I would'nt have noticed if someone had not pointed it out

WARNING!!!!!!!!!

If you have work done on your inside rearview mirror, USE EXTREME CAUTION.

I learned the hard way today. It seems the current windshield in the GT500, GT, and other newer models of Mustangs have a flaw. When trying to ease off the rearview mirror, after loosing, the windshield will break under the windshield mounted bracket.

My Shelby is now a NON-VIRGIN as a result of this flaw. I needed work done on the mirror, and ended up with a broken windshield.

The local dealership contacted their windshield supplier, and they just happened to have a factory replacement in stock.

Funny thing, they happened to have a few in stock because this is happening on a regular basis. Dealership is calling FORD tomorrow.

Must be an interaction between the bracket adhesive, and the glass.

ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!

What work did you have done, I am guessing the auto dim or compass was not working ?

[QUOTE=busababy;7299]What work did you have done, I am guessing the auto dim or compass was not working ?[/QUOTE


I really missed having an outdoor temp in side. N E Pa. gets pretty darn cold. Wanted to know when the temp dipped below freezing. No wrecks wanted.

So I ordered the mirror with temp/comp/3 garage door openers. They were installing the new mirror.

My own fault for wanting the upgrade. But it's in now. And the windshield is replaced with the EXACT same one that came out. Sooooooo. Just no longer a VIRGIN. :(

What work did you have done, I am guessing the auto dim or compass was not working ?

Forgot to ask you.........

Where'd you get the rear window louvers???????????

Thanks

Took out the Stereo/CD player tonight in the Shelby.Cd player does not work.Dealer ordered a new one.We had a bad batch of Cd players in July.Mine was made July 19.I did not want the dealership working on my Shelby,that's why I took it out.Personal preference.

[QUOTE=busababy;7299]What work did you have done, I am guessing the auto dim or compass was not working ?[/QUOTE


I really missed having an outdoor temp in side. N E Pa. gets pretty darn cold. Wanted to know when the temp dipped below freezing. No wrecks wanted.

So I ordered the mirror with temp/comp/3 garage door openers. They were installing the new mirror.

My own fault for wanting the upgrade. But it's in now. And the windshield is replaced with the EXACT same one that came out. Sooooooo. Just no longer a VIRGIN. :(

07 Help us out here was this a matter of forcing the mirror off the windshield mount or a problem of adhesive and glass. Maybe I answered my own question since you removed your own CD player.:p

[QUOTE=bogey1222;7302]

07 Help us out here was this a matter of forcing the mirror off the windshield mount or a problem of adhesive and glass. Maybe I answered my own question since you removed your own CD player.:p



I was not there so I really don't know.This is the 1st I have heard about this.I don't get it!The mirror should slide up and down the bracket,then it gets tightened down with a set screw.Maybe the set screw was tight and someone yanked on the mirror.Dunno.

If the windshield is the same as the GT - it's just fragile as all hell. This was a big problem when I did my GT (mustang that is) mirror install, I went slowly slowly - even slower than that - no issue. But read of many who had problems. I could see a musclebound mechanic just rushing through it would bust it.

Now if I could just find one of these for a reasonable price, I could get back in it!

[QUOTE=shlbysvt;7313]



I was not there so I really don't know.This is the 1st I have heard about this.I don't get it!The mirror should slide up and down the bracket,then it gets tightened down with a set screw.Maybe the set screw was tight and someone yanked on the mirror.Dunno.

No forcing was done. Set screw was out completely. The Mech didn't force, he tried to be gentle with it. The glass, and mounting bracket, just came off in his hands. He was trying to slide it up. Like I said, the windshield provider had a few in stock. Has had several 06 GT's with same problem...........

Don't think you can blame this on Mech's. Sounds like a glass/adhesive issue to me.

I am looking to get the homelink mirror. Does it just plug right in or is there more wiring that needs to be done?

I am looking to get the homelink mirror. Does it just plug right in or is there more wiring that needs to be done?


The homelink mirror did require wiring, and the mounting of the temp sensor. I need to get that adjusted though. I was sitting at idle last week for 10 minutes. Temp outside was 18, mirror was correct until I sat for a while. Climbed to 86. But did go right back down to correct temp once I started moving again. She's HOT in more ways than 3..................:D

Thanks for the fast response. I actually don't want the one with the temperature. I want it for the homelink. I wonder if I would still need to wire anything?

Thanks for the fast response. I actually don't want the one with the temperature. I want it for the homelink. I wonder if I would still need to wire anything?

That is with the home link. 3 seperate links for garage door openers etc. Not sure if you can get Homelink mirror without temp.

I'm with you, homelink is much more convienient than conventional openers hooked on the visor.

I have always felt my shift from first to second has always been a little rough, especialy in cold weather. The other day threw a hard shift from first to second and missed second for the first time since I can't remember when. Did not pay it much mind till today. Went up against a worked 2004 cobra and missed second gear not once but four times. The verdict is in I have blown sychros in second.:( Not a very happy camper now and am trying to determine how to correct the problem. Bring it in for a service tech to destroy my car or remove the trani myself and see if I could have Ford Racing or a truly qualified Ford tech correct the problem. Any thoughts from our members would be greatly appreciated.

I would take it to Ford and let them fix it. Closely monitor the Tech and the repair process. That's why you have a warranty. Why not use it? Just my 2 cents.:)

I'm with HARLEY, part of the cost for your BABY was the warranty. If you mess with it, you could VOID it..........:eek:

I tend to agree guys just a little hesitant having someone messing with my baby. I know in the end that is what I must do but just venting for the moment. It is kind of hard to monitor what goes on once you drop it off at the dealer. I will have to have a long conversation with my dealer to ensure his best service tech handles this one. I am sure he will do the right thing, but I am just a little upset for the moment. She only has about 1,600 miles on her and I am having a hard time accepting this warranty problem. I may drive it hard at times but not to account for this.:confused:

I have always felt my shift from first to second has always been a little rough, especialy in cold weather. The other day threw a hard shift from first to second and missed second for the first time since I can't remember when. Did not pay it much mind till today. Went up against a worked 2004 cobra and missed second gear not once but four times. The verdict is in I have blow sychros in second.:( Not a very happy camper now and am trying to determine how to correct the problem. Bring it in for a service tech to destroy my car or remove the trani myself and see if I could have Ford Racing or a truly qualified Ford tech correct the problem. Any thoughts from our members would be greatly appreciated.


Shlbysvt,
Pm me your dealership name and I will have AAI give them a call.Let me see what I can do.Don't get upset(easy for me to say)lets see if we can rectify this kinda quickly..............07..........................

For some peace of mind, have the service rep go over the car with you and note that it is in absolute perfect condition with no scratches, dings, curb rash etc. and then you both sign that piece of paper and you keep the original and them the copy. I learned this from a friend a long time ago and it saved my butt once big time when the car came out with a nice ding on the pass. door.

Once upon a time, there were actual SVT dealers that had to have their technicians go through special training to have that designation. If nothing else, they should have a different attitude toward your Shelby and maybe the training will be applicable to the problem. And they may have contacts at the Ford factory to ask if they have any questions. I would look for an old SVT dealership to take it to.

Once upon a time, there were actual SVT dealers that had to have their technicians go through special training to have that designation. If nothing else, they should have a different attitude toward your Shelby and maybe the training will be applicable to the problem. And they may have contacts at the Ford factory to ask if they have any questions. I would look for an old SVT dealership to take it to.

All Shelby dealerships had to send their technicians for a qualified course and pay $1,500 in order to qualify as a Shelby dealer. I have the greatest respect for my dealer but irrespective am hesitant to turn my Shelby over to anyone. Just my feelings on the matter.

All Shelby dealerships had to send their technicians for a qualified course and pay $1,500 in order to qualify as a Shelby dealer. I have the greatest respect for my dealer but irrespective am hesitant to turn my Shelby over to anyone. Just my feelings on the matter.



I hear you Joe.I'm with you,I don't like anyone touching my baby but take it in and they will put a new tranny in it for you.It's better it happened now and not a month from now.It will run better than it did before.Really sorry for your inconvenience but it will be short time compared to waiting to get it built.Just my thought.....................07.................... ...

I hear you Joe.I'm with you,I don't like anyone touching my baby but take it in and they will put a new tranny in it for you.It's better it happened now and not a month from now.It will run better than it did before.Really sorry for your inconvenience but it will be short time compared to waiting to get it built.Just my thought.....................07.................... ...

I agree 07, and I know in the end it will be a better machine, and from you or Ford no apologies necessary. S**t happens. Just hated to miss the oportunity to run against a formidable pony. Don't know what hurt more, the technical loss or the trani.:rolleyes: What I do know is "I'll Be Back".:D :D Thanks for every thing 07, you are always there in time of need. A true friend.;)

On the plus side... 07Shelby finally found where he left his tiny ball-bearing collection.

On the down-side, your transmission has probably crushed 'em pretty off-true by now. :)

On the plus side... 07Shelby finally found where he left his tiny ball-bearing collection.

On the down-side, your transmission has probably crushed 'em pretty off-true by now. :)



Oh yeh and I want them back too.I'm taking my balls and going home:D :D


Shlbysvt,you are welcome and hey I'll give you the chance to lose to me with a new tranny but I don't want to hear you missed 2nd.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: Get er done and we'll have some fun,promise:D :D

Shlbysvt,
You better hurry,I just pulled my exhaust off but not the manifold(yet),layed out the headers out in the garage,have the driveshaft out and working on taking the shifter out.I hope to have it done by the end of the weekend.I sure hope my hand lasts till I'm done.Then I'll finish in the engine compartment and I'll be good to go.Hurry and get that tranny done,time is drawing near.

Pay them no mind 07, the only regret I have is you are more than one up on me on Mods!:D :D The hand is more important than anything at the moment, if you know what I mean.;) As I have said before Romeo of BUST! I will do it in reverse if necessary!:D :D

By the way Jonsey What Exactly is Your Quest? Not to fuel the fire?:eek:

We're just funnin.I won't say to much more it might happen to me,ouch.Gotta love this ride.

Shelbysvt-- man that stinks about the trans! keep the board updated pls... knock on wood I am closing in on 1600 miles myself
The homelink mirror did require wiring, and the mounting of the temp sensor. I need to get that adjusted though. I was sitting at idle last week for 10 minutes. Temp outside was 18, mirror was correct until I sat for a while. Climbed to 86. But did go right back down to correct temp once I started moving again. She's HOT in more ways than 3..................:D
Bogey, I want to get the same mirror with the homelink and thermom..... I'd be interested to know if you recall approximately what$ they charged you for the mirror & temp sensor part+ labor (sorry about the windshield, I was planning to try this myself but think I will let the dealer do the mirror for that reason in case of a similar problem).

I had an old Bimmer M5 sedan a few years ago which triggered a chime when ambient temp fell below 39 degrees to remind driver of traction issues-- I have gotten into the habit of monitoring evening/morning outdoor temp in my recent cars to stay mindful of summer tires' diminished grip.

PDK will keep you posted. Taking her in on Tuesday for my dealer to do his analysis and submit to the hot line. His feelings and the feed back I am getting from Ford is a new tranny is the order of business for an SVT product. They do not want the dealers to take apart the trans as they like to see exactly what failed and the reason for the failure. Hope to have it in by Romeo or will have to bypass second for the trip from Monroe to Romeo. One way or the other my car will be there on the 15th of June.:)

PDK will keep you posted. Taking her in on Tuesday for my dealer to do his analysis and submit to the hot line. His feelings and the feed back I am getting from Ford is a new tranny is the order of business for an SVT product. They do not want the dealers to take apart the trans as they like to see exactly what failed and the reason for the failure. Hope to have it in by Romeo or will have to bypass second for the trip from Monroe to Romeo. One way or the other my car will be there on the 15th of June.:)


I don't think it will take long to get it fixed.I sure hope not.

Anyone have issues with their dash squeaking? I have noise coming from the driver side of the dash when in motion, 300 miles on my baby.

Shelby 2845,
Can you tell me when your car was built mm/yyyy?

I ordered a build sheet that has not arrived yet with the exact day/date. Door info says 1/07

I ordered a build sheet that has not arrived yet with the exact day/date. Door info says 1/07




I know there were no squeak issues during that period of time.There was a vendor issue but it was months before that.

Anyone have issues with their dash squeaking? I have noise coming from the driver side of the dash when in motion, 300 miles on my baby.

Glad I am plagued only by these nuisance things - small peanuts compared to a blown tranny :o ................ probably 20% of the time I drive off in the morning I get a minor driver's dash squeak. Thankfully mine must be totally superficial as I can make it stop immediately simply by applying a bit of pressure *downward* on the leather stitched dash brow..... I just reach forward w/left land near the side/defrost vents as if grasping a piece of plywood or a book, push down a bit, squeak goes away for another few days.........you will feel the dash brow move a bit if you push down seems like a nice design as brow is apparently mounted with some flex or cushion built in.... go figure:confused: . 1700 miles on mine.

Anybody help me with the following??:
The only other squeak I get --driving me completely dopey is from the glove box clasp.... I haven't taken the time to investigate further but something involved with the glovebox 'hook' squeaks only when the glovebox is closed... i'll probably try inserting some homemade thin felt pieces as 'washers' or something similar...... definitely is the glovebox hook as I can recreate the noise by opening the glovebox door and pinching the 'hook' side-to-side....I can eliminate the squeak while driving by leaving the glovebox door open!!:rolleyes: maddening....... gotta crawl under there one of these days & figure it out.

I ordered a build sheet that has not arrived yet with the exact day/date. Door info says 1/07

hmmmm, where did you order the build sheet from?

hmmmm, where did you order the build sheet from?



Not sure what he's talking about.They call them Broadcast sheets now.

[QUOTE=PDK;10321]Glad I am plagued only by these nuisance things - small peanuts compared to a blown tranny :o ................


Never said a blown tranny. Let's set the record straight. Second gear only.:p Baby got me HOME.:D

Call SVT direct @ 1-800-367-3788. I gave them my VIN and asked for what THEY call a build sheet. Received confirmation yesterday it has been processed and is on the way!

Steve
:)

Never said a blown tranny. Let's set the record straight. Second gear only.:p Baby got me HOME.:D
sorry.... you're right, it's not as discouraging as i made it sound. :cool:

Call SVT direct @ 1-800-367-3788. I gave them my VIN and asked for what THEY call a build sheet. Received confirmation yesterday it has been processed and is on the way!

Steve
:)

Thanks, I'll call them tomorrow!

I have the little squeaky guy on the drivers side as well, i found tilting the steering wheel up or down a little gets rid of it until it comes back again.

have another issue that i'll be talking with my dealer about come monday though:(

No squeaks in my dash yet. I had a little rattle coming from the exhaust, but it was my fault :o All fixed now.

Call SVT direct @ 1-800-367-3788. I gave them my VIN and asked for what THEY call a build sheet. Received confirmation yesterday it has been processed and is on the way!

Steve
:)



FYI-I called SVT today and asked them for a build sheet.The guy says I see you are from AAI(we are all hooked up to the FORD phone system),"yes I am".He said then you know there aren't build sheets any more,yep I know just Broadcast sheets(which is basically the same thing).He said what we are offering is a "Certificate of Authenticity".Price hasn't been determined yet but he told me to call back in July.:D :D

I called them today, too, and they told me no such build sheet existed but they will send out SVT certificates in July! I have never had to pay for them before.

FYI-I called SVT today and asked them for a build sheet.The guy says I see you are from AAI(we are all hooked up to the FORD phone system),"yes I am".He said then you know there aren't build sheets any more,yep I know just Broadcast sheets(which is basically the same thing).He said what we are offering is a "Certificate of Authenticity".Price hasn't been determined yet but he told me to call back in July.:D :D

Price? Weren't the certificates sent out at no charge for previous SVT vehicles? :confused:

Price? Weren't the certificates sent out at no charge for previous SVT vehicles? :confused:



He told me the Ford GT was $40.00.

That's crazy! I have voicemail (if anyone cares) from SVT confirming my BUILD SHEET is on the way. If/when it arrives I will post it. I did not have to pay anything and was also told they will send certificates in July IN ADDITION to what I am getting now...:eek:

That's crazy! I have voicemail (if anyone cares) from SVT confirming my BUILD SHEET is on the way. If/when it arrives I will post it. I did not have to pay anything and was also told they will send certificates in July IN ADDITION to what I am getting now...:eek:



Easy my friend.I am sorry if I rubbed you the wrong way.I just know we don't have build sheets any more.I'm not saying they didn't tell you that.I'm just saying now they are called Broadcast Sheets.They stay in the computer system for about a week and then they are reassigned a new Commit # for a new VIN.I have the Broadcast Sheet for my Shelby,but I got it when it was 1st built.After a week you can't get a Broadcast Sheet,sorry!

we will see

Wish I had known that when I ordered my Shelby. I would have asked for a copy :(

Wish I had known that when I ordered my Shelby. I would have asked for a copy :(

Sorry Sherri.I don't want to advertise that or I get flooded with Pm's.

no prob, i understand :)

no prob, i understand :)

Anyone have issues with their dash squeaking? I have noise coming from the driver side of the dash when in motion, 300 miles on my baby.



Where the "A" pillar meets the dash we install a piece of felt tape or sometimes it squeaks.Take the moulding off the "A" pillar(drivers side) and check to see if it is rubbing there at the dash,if so put a piece of felt there.

Thanks, I checked and that is exactly where it is squeaking. On another note I received a letter from Ford/CRC today listing the build date for my car, the VIN, the VIN decoded and all the options. I purchased my car in February, so you CAN still get this info.

Thanks, I checked and that is exactly where it is squeaking. On another note I received a letter from Ford/CRC today listing the build date for my car, the VIN, the VIN decoded and all the options. I purchased my car in February, so you CAN still get this info.

Was this the "Build Sheet" that they were sending from SVT or is this something else you had requested? I never received any letters from Ford myself. It would have been nice, though. You have some good documents to start a book on your Shelby!

FYI, I found that the build date I was first given was accurate only to the week of production for my car. The actual "produced date" was four days later than the build date. Still, it was good information!

Best of luck!

Yes, this is the build sheet they referred to, however the letter does not state build sheet anywhere. There is a ton of info in it. If you call the number I listed the research department will look your VIN up and send you the info. Hope this helps.

Yes, this is the build sheet they referred to, however the letter does not state build sheet anywhere. There is a ton of info in it. If you call the number I listed the research department will look your VIN up and send you the info. Hope this helps.

Shelby2845,
Is it possible for you to post that letter?I am really curious to what you have.

Yes, this is the build sheet they referred to, however the letter does not state build sheet anywhere. There is a ton of info in it. If you call the number I listed the research department will look your VIN up and send you the info. Hope this helps.

I'm curious too. I think we'd all like that info...............:confused:

Call SVT direct @ 1-800-367-3788. I gave them my VIN and asked for what THEY call a build sheet. Received confirmation yesterday it has been processed and is on the way!

Steve
:)


Just went back on this one. I called this week and was advised nothing would be available til July, 07. And to call back at that time.
:confused: :confused: :confused:

Me too! And I just called.

Thats odd, did you ask to speak to someone in the research dept? Maybe I just got lucky and spoke to someone who wanted to help. Wish they were consistent, I can give you the persons name that helped me if you want? You can PM me

Is anyone having problems with a slow fuel tank fill where the fuel pumps for a second or two and then stops and prevents the gas tank from being filled more than about half way? When I google the problem I find that Ford has had a problem from a design flaw with fuel tanks starting on some 2005 Mustangs. The problem results in repeated rapid shut offs of the filling station pump. The condition may be due to the fuel tank vapor venting system inside the fuel tank. Any suggestions besides TSB 05-4-8? I really don't want the dealership removing and replacing my fuel tank!

Is anyone having problems with a slow fuel tank fill where the fuel pumps for a second or two and then stops and prevents the gas tank from being filled more than about half way? When I google the problem I find that Ford has had a problem from a design flaw with fuel tanks starting on some 2005 Mustangs. The problem results in repeated rapid shut offs of the filling station pump. The condition may be due to the fuel tank vapor venting system inside the fuel tank. Any suggestions besides TSB 05-4-8? I really don't want the dealership removing and replacing my fuel tank!



That has been a problem since the 2005 model.What I have found is if the gas pump flows fast you have that problem.I buy 95% of my gas at the same Sunoco station.I never had that problem till 1 day they were changing the gas filter at the pump,and I waited till he was done.I used the pump when he was done and it did just what you are talking about.The next time I went there I could squeeze the gas handle all the way and it never shut off till the tank was full.

That has been a problem since the 2005 model.What I have found is if the gas pump flows fast you have that problem.I buy 95% of my gas at the same Sunoco station.I never had that problem till 1 day they were changing the gas filter at the pump,and I waited till he was done.I used the pump when he was done and it did just what you are talking about.The next time I went there I could squeeze the gas handle all the way and it never shut off till the tank was full.

I think you may have it there, 07, about the flow speed. I always fill my tank with the fill valve partially closed to slow it down and I seldom have it shut off on me. At times the pumps seem to pump very "aggressive" and I have problems then. It seems like they are either on full blast or off. Nothing in between.

I probably use half a dozen stations between home and work! I like to vary my route to and from work so I gas up where it is convenient at the time.

It concerns me because if I'm traveling and there is only a single station with a limited number of pumps I may find that I won't be able to get enough fuel in the tank to get to the next staion. I've owned a lot of cars in my time and I have never had this problem. In fact, I have never even heard of this problem until now. The pumps I have the most problems with are those with a single tube in the bottom of the nozzle. Nozzles with multiple holes all the way around the nozzle end pump just fine. I've read that turning the nozzle to 2 o'clock or all the way inverted in the tank neck helps.

It concerns me because if I'm traveling and there is only a single station with a limited number of pumps I may find that I won't be able to get enough fuel in the tank to get to the next staion. I've owned a lot of cars in my time and I have never had this problem. In fact, I have never even heard of this problem until now. The pumps I have the most problems with are those with a single tube in the bottom of the nozzle. Nozzles with multiple holes all the way around the nozzle end pump just fine. I've read that turning the nozzle to 2 o'clock or all the way inverted in the tank neck helps.



I have never experienced not being able to fill it up.That shouldn't be an issue.Or am I reading this wrong?

No, your're right. But it is an extended fill. Some of the examples use 30 minutes to fill a half tank. I can tell you that from my experience, if I were below a half tank and the pump started these rapid shut offs, it would take a very long time to get a meaningful amount of fuel in the tank. I'm not kidding 07. This particular problem as it's happening to me allows little or no fuel into the tank each time before the automatic shut off occurs. It's bad.

Hey Guys I have been having the same problem with my Shelby. Took it into the dealer and they said that the tank can't BURP so they are coming out with a new tank neck, but it won't be here till the end of the month. hope that helps

Hey Guys I have been having the same problem with my Shelby. Took it into the dealer and they said that the tank can't BURP so they are coming out with a new tank neck, but it won't be here till the end of the month. hope that helps

Ford had the same problem on 90s model Dually diesel trucks. Hi speed pumps would air lock input to tank. Slow fill would normally get it done. Many would carry a block of wood and raise that corner of the vehicle to help over come the issue until Big Blue re designed filler neck. I am not telling any one to carry a block of wood!!!! Don't FLAME ME here.

ILLEGAL

07, Noticed upon removal of the drive shaft, that the center bearing was cocked to one side and not perfectly in line with the drive shaft. This would have caused unecessay bearing wear and eventualy vibration and or noise. This is an item for you to mention to the manager on the assembly line. My first thought was it shifted under torque, but the mounting bolts told the true story. It was assembled that way.:eek:

07, Noticed upon removal of the drive shaft, that the center bearing was cocked to one side and not perfectly in line with the drive shaft. This would have caused unecessay bearing wear and eventualy vibration and or noise. This is an item for you to mention to the manager on the assembly line. My first thought was it shifted under torque, but the mounting bolts told the true story. It was assembled that way.:eek:



That is an item that is suppose to be inspected before shipping,sorry.They inspected mine at Autoport before it got shipped,it was good but so was my Tranny:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Hey it didn't come from Mexico did it?:p

New Issue taht I haven't read about yet. Had the engine light come on last week. Took it in on Friday, and the "cause code" was "P0175 and P1227 - SUPERCDAHRGER OVERBOOST". They checked vacuum lines, no leaks. Checked air filter, all good, checked for exhaust leaks, none. SO they reset the code.

Anybody else having this problem? :eek: :eek:

New Issue taht I haven't read about yet. Had the engine light come on last week. Took it in on Friday, and the "cause code" was "P0175 and P1227 - SUPERCDAHRGER OVERBOOST". They checked vacuum lines, no leaks. Checked air filter, all good, checked for exhaust leaks, none. SO they reset the code.

Anybody else having this problem? :eek: :eek:


What was the reaction of your dealer with all your mods, especially the pulley, or did he even notice?

What was the reaction of your dealer with all your mods, especially the pulley, or did he even notice?

No reaction at all. They are aware of the mods.

What was the reaction of your dealer with all your mods, especially the pulley, or did he even notice?

Have you heard of anybody else having this CODE come up????:(

Have you heard of anybody else having this CODE come up????:(

You are the first as far as I know. I would give Fred a call at Evolution and see if he has experienced this code.

You are the first as far as I know. I would give Fred a call at Evolution and see if he has experienced this code.

+1

I got a "Running Too Rich" code with my Stage 1 Evo tune. Fred fixed it immediately.

Any update on the P1227 code? I got the same code but no check engine light.