My 1st oil change, 4019.0 miles...
I have been hearing a roar/squeek from the rear end at parking lot speeds for turns.Had the tech check it out. He told the service writer to make me an appointment to have the clutch packs changed out to the carbon fiber ones.
They said "No Charge", I asked several questions,why/how did it happen?
Service writer asked me if the car had sat for any amount of time?
Well it's an 08' w/4k on it, "DUH", so I said yes it had...

They told me the stock clutch packs after sitting loose the capability to absorb friction modifier and the fix is to replace it w/the CF ones at no charge.

Any one else had this issue?
Also are there any other things I need to inquire about at the stealership?

Thanks

Big Mac

As far as I know, the GT500s come with CF clutches stock. The usual fix is to add friction modifier. This free swap sounds suspicious.

Thanks, will inquire further before service work is C/W.

Big Mac

Due to the fluid level in the rear diff, when the car sits , only half the rear diff clutch pack is submerged in oil. One possible fix is to add friction modifier as suggested , but it doesn't work every time. I would go to a parking lot and do several figure 8's at normal parking lot speeds. If space is limited, try several circle turns left and then several more turning right, This will turn the clutches in both directions. Kind of like burnishing brake pads (when there is a squeak noise). If the noise is still present, let the technican replace the clutch pack.

This is good information to know as my car has been garaged for over a year now as I'm working out of the country. I can't wait to get home in a couple of months to drive her again. Thanks for the post.

I had this noise.

Friction Modifier added to the rear end cured it. :)

Ok, tried the circle and figure 8 thing for over 30 mins. In fact I had 2 cars stop and watch me the whole time..
Did not cure it....
Any one got a part # for the friction modifier?
I have an appointment on the 27th at the stealership....
Thanks for all the imput.

Big Mac

The figure 8 thing is of NO USE unless you add the friction modifier FIRST.
The purpose is to get the modifier well mixed.

The dealership will know what the friction modifier is.
There are no differences in the kinds. Only one is made.
Just ask them to add ONE bottle of Motorcraft Additive Friction Modifier to your rear end.

The clutch pack replacement is ONLY for GT500's built before 10/22/06.
The rest since then have the new clutch packs.
Look on your side door panel and find out when your car was built.
If it was built before one of those dates it very well could be the clutch pack.
If it was built after that date... it is not the clutch pack.

Here is what the TSB says:
Vehicles built after 10/22/2006 were built with
the new limited slip clutch pack. For these
vehicles, add 1 bottle of Motorcraft Additive
Friction Modifier to the axle. Perform several full lock
turns in both directions at low speeds to force the lubricant into the clutch pack.


Friction Modifier looks like this:
http://i.ebayimg.com/17/!BnB-gNgBGk~$(KGrHqQOKj4Et10!i4!wBLh0eeF!Eg~~_35.JPG

Thanks for the 411. Do you happen to know what type fluid is in the rear end?
Dope/90w/syn tranny?
Thanks again for the help..

Big Mac

Not sure what rear end fluid they use.
Of course it will be Motorcraft.

But you wont have to add more.
They just add the Friction Modifier to what's in there and bam you are good to go.
Again check your build date.
Just because your car is a 2008 does not mean it was BUILT in 2008

Will do, it live lives in a secure,gated garage. I ask only because,
If they were going to replace the packs I thought it may be a good time to install the FR girdle I picked up. I do LIKE synthetic fluids a lot. I was thinking maybe of Royal Purple or Amsoil for a refill.(And Friction Modifier of course).
I just wanted to add the correct type fluid, Dope/ATF...etc

Fluid is 75W - 140 syenthetic. It has a 3 qt. capacity. It's expensive. If I remember right it's like $20.00 per quart. BSSmoke is right , that you shouldn't need any fluid, unless you find the diff is low on fluid. I think the additive friction modifier is $7.50. You can try that and do the turns again. If that don't do it. Let em fix it under the powertrain warranty.

Just one more heads up. I would only use the Ford Synthetic fluid while this car is still under the factory powertrain warranty. If there were to be any rear diff failure while under warranty, you don't want them to have any reason to deny a claim.

Cool,
the cover will def wait till issue is fixed. Only has 4k so it is/should be covered under the warranty. On a side note, my VMP, OE-Look GT500 Intercooler Reservoir 3x Capacity came today. Any pointers/leads on which antifreeze I need to use?I eventually want to add the Afco *Dual Fan* Heat Exchanger for 07-10 GT500.Is this the one most folks are using? I will be upgrading the blower w/2.59 pulley soon.So I want it to stay as cool as possible...

(HE) http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=353&parent=112

(Tank) http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=375&parent=112

Thanks again...
Big Mac

did you get her fixed?

They added the Friction Modifier on Mon. Has not fixed it yet.
Tech and service writer heard it before they even drove it.
Parts on order.I will update this post as it progresses.

Thanks,

Big Mac

Ok, friction modifier almost did the trick.
Took it in today for the pack change
Will update soon....

Big Mac

I have an 09 that groans on turns too. I thought from prior discussions on this subject that it was just the nature of the beast. My question is if I leave it alone am I causing damage or should I bring it to the dealer.

I have an 09 that groans on turns too. I thought from prior discussions on this subject that it was just the nature of the beast. My question is if I leave it alone am I causing damage or should I bring it to the dealer.

Not normal and you will want to get her fixed. If the clutch pack disc start delaminating or loosing material, it will contaminate the fluid which could eventually lead to pinion and side bearing failure.

Ok, clutch packs replaced. N/C, Noise gone completely.
I had them install a new girdle/cover for the rear end. the FR one w/the cap bearing pressure things inside.(American Muscle) http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-88-diff-cover.html
I also had them change the tranny fluid and I gave them Royal Purple Synchromax MTF fluid. http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal-purple-synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid.html
Shifts much quieter and smoother.

Side NOTE: any comments/thoughts about the following 2 products?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/swarr-bar-88-rear-2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/extreme-lower-control-arms.html

comments welcome...

Big Mac

Ok, clutch packs replaced. N/C, Noise gone completely.
I had them install a new girdle/cover for the rear end. the FR one w/the cap bearing pressure things inside.(American Muscle) http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-88-diff-cover.html
I also had them change the tranny fluid and I gave them Royal Purple Synchromax MTF fluid. http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal-purple-synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid.html
Shifts much quieter and smoother.

Side NOTE: any comments/thoughts about the following 2 products?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/swarr-bar-88-rear-2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/extreme-lower-control-arms.html

comments welcome...

Big Mac


Good info on the trans fluid. I might try that stuff myself. The sarr bar will make your rear diff even stronger. Control arms look like a great choice to me since they have the spherical bushings. You will want to add an upper control arm back there also, if you don't already have one.

Any suggestions on the UCA? I have seen several different ones. I plan on getting the F3 lowering kit, so the UCA prolly needs to be adjustable,correct?

Thanks again for the help...
When I get the LCA's and the Swarr on I'll take pics and post them...

Big Mac

Not normal and you will want to get her fixed. If the clutch pack disc start delaminating or loosing material, it will contaminate the fluid which could eventually lead to pinion and side bearing failure.

I took your advice. Dropped her off Monday, just got her back today. New clutch paks...no more noise. Thanks

Yes it needs to be adjustible. I Like the J&M adjustible upper control arm as well, you can adjust the pinion angle when intalling it with your lowering kit and new lower control arms. Note: if your doing alot of hard launches or drag racing with street slicks you should probably look into an adjustible upper control arm that comes with an additional and thicker body bracket, this is the bracket bolted to the floorpan that the UCA bolts too.

Thanks, I don't do the strip.. I am too scared to do hard launches...I broke something in a car before and it shyed me away from side stepping the clutch. It DID launch pretty good though..

My luck, our bullit proof beasts would break if I did it...(I may be wrong though)


Big Mac